Highlights from New York Fashion Week
Kink seemed to be the buzz-word all over this year’s New York Fashion Week. 2012’s most stirring and eye-catching designers showed sexy leather, teasingly high neck-lines, killer boots and androgynous angled and unstructured jackets. Leather and military looks were all over the catwalk, feeding into Ready-To-Wear collections from the most looked-to designers of the year.Ready to Wear Leather
Fetishism peppered Alexander Wang’s collection in particular. Ready-To-Wear looks comprised leather trench coats, lacquered skirts and heavy motorcycle boots. Celine, who last year in Paris showed feminine gentrified tweeds, has created a collection of heavy leathers and powerful, androgynous pieces. Even occasionally conservative Calvin Klein nodded toward this kinky new trend with high-necked unstructured dresses that featured leather panelling and patches. DKNY, likewise, showed a number of leather trench coats and polo-collared jackets, alongside seemingly paradoxical floral prints that added emphasis to the masculine strength of much of the collection. Helmut Lang, always reliable for wearable high fashion, has characteristically taken a more practical approach and has melded this look into a more conventional business style. Ribbed leathers and rough-shaped furs combine with commandingly cut jackets to create an intensely slick, modern look.
Colours
In terms of colours, these bold styles are followed by even bulkier colours. Rich tones take the fore-front. Military looks are supported across the board by navy and olive-green. Whereas elsewhere, royal shades of maroon and burgundy are repeated.
Men's Fashion
Strangely, these fetish influences do not seem to have such a visible presence in the men’s collections. Calvin Klein offer a collection of muted, single-toned suits, which while unarguably dapper, do not have the risqué edge of the women’s collection. Likewise, Alexander Wang’s collection is by comparison down-right conservative, with a number of casual jackets and any-time shorts. Tommy Hilfiger in particular have gone in completely the opposite direction, with preppy beach looks. This trend is notably one of women’s fashion, a progression from the androgynous styles of the past few years and certainly an empowering move for women – an unashamed embracing of sexuality as women’s clothing styles begin to step onto a level battle field with men. While androgynous styles made women equal to men, these kinky new looks cut out a new edge, one that is fierce, strong and – it would seem – here to stay. London Fashion Week 2012 has just concluded, showing these looks have translated across the Atlantic – are they set to take over the world?
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